Cheap Wine

Although I'm known to like the finer things in life, I’m a graduate student in the humanities who’s engaged to a social worker. While we probably blow far too much of our meager income on quasi-fine things, we also must live on a budget. When it comes to wine, such a budget can be problematic. It is not difficult to drink on the cheap, particularly if you live anywhere near a Trader Joe’s, but it is difficult to drink decent wine on the cheap. Below I’ll list some of my favorites in the $15 and under category (and two above $15 that are tremendous values).

Before I begin, here are a few caveats: First, one’s palate is of course subjective, so you may disagree with any or all of my suggestions. But I’d wager that you’ll find something you like on this list.

·         Second, many of these wines may not be universally available. Most of them, perhaps all, are quite widely distributed on the West Coast at least. The costs I’ll give are what I consider good values. You may see some of these at a much higher price.

·         Third, there’s always the question of vintage and aging. These wines may be better or worse in any given year, and it does pay to note vintages. That said, most of these are mass produced (for lack of a better term) and as such strive for a certain level of consistency.

·         Finally, and this should be obvious, these are generally not sophisticated wines. To be very broad, I think you can judge a wine by three central categories (other than the obvious one of flavor): balance, depth, and structure. It’s a little hard to say what these rather abstract terms mean, but we can do a quick and dirty version. A wine’s balance is its harmoniousness. Do the flavors work together or does a certain overtone really stand out or conflict with the wine’s other flavors? Most of these wines will be balanced, then. Balance is much easier to get in an inexpensive bottle than is depth or structure. Depth is a wine’s layers of flavors. Truly great wines will have an almost, but never quite, overwhelming depth of flavors that somehow work together in a nearly magical way. Structure is perhaps the most difficult to define. A bit like what the Meese Commission said about pornography, you know structure when you taste it. There’s a certain kind of three-dimensionality on the palate that “supports” the wine’s flavors, a “body” on which the wine is built. Most of these wines will lack the structure and depth of a great wine, and none of them will give you a sense of terroir. Instead, these are pleasant every day drinkers.    

Red Wines

The standby purveyor of cheap wine is the California based specialty grocery chain Trader Joe’s. Most of their wine is made by the giant Gallo company and sold under a variety of ever changing names. I’ve found that these wines simply aren’t that good. I’m sure you can find decent ones, but I’ve largely given up on buying a random bottle at TJ’s. The bad ones are really fucking bad, and the decent ones are just ok. Most of the wines I’ll mention here are not available at my local TJ’s, although they could be at yours. The first wine I’ll mention, however, is.

Perrin & Fils Côtes du Rhône Reserve (France $8): As you’ll soon see, Côtes du Rhônes make a number of appearances on this list. They are often, if not always, a good value because they provide balance, pair well with food, and are just plain drinkable. This one is highly available and while nothing special, it’s drinkable enough. Good in a pinch or for bringing to a party.

The Magnificent Wine Company House Wine (U.S. –Washington $9): This wine is (or was) produced by Washington winemaker Charles Smith, who has a number of other labels including the high end K Vintners. This wine is a blend (as are most wines mentioned here) of Columbia Valley grapes, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon & merlot. It’s lush and fruity with a hint of berry jamminess. This one is a standby for us, and although it has virtually no structure and very little depth, it’s a great tasting red wine for a value price. The name says it all.

 

Rosenblum Vintner’s Cuvee Zinfandel (U.S. –California $10): Zins are often a bit looked down upon by the wine snob crowd, and perhaps for good reasons. They tend to be big, rustic and peppery, as well as highly fruity and boozy. This is Rosenblum’s entry level Zin and it gives you a bit of all of the above. This is not an austere wine at all. Nevertheless, it’s probably the best “big” wine you’ll find on this list, except maybe the Andezon, which is big in an entirely different way.

Montebuena Rioja (Spain $10): The 2009 vintage of this wine received a 90 point score from The Wine Advocate. It’s 100% Tempranillo (the “noble grape” of Spain), meaning it’s rich but light bodied with a little bit of the dusty (in a good way!) Rioja flavor, and that it pairs well with food, especially roasted meats and tomato sauces. Not all Spanish wines are good, and there are plenty of pricey ones, but younger Tempranillos like this one still often offer a lot of bang for the buck.

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône (France $12): All in all, this is probably my favorite red on this list. It’s an accessible yet deep blend: 50% syrah, 40% Grenache 10% Mourvedre. I’ll just quote The Wine Advocate on the 2009 vintage: “A deep ruby/purple wine with lots of cassis, kirsch, pepper, and even an intriguing floral note, the wine is medium to full-bodied , silky smooth, and a truly delicious, hedonistic and intellectually satisfying wine that is a remarkable bargain.” (NB: I’ve seen this as high as $17, although it should be $12-$13).

Andezon Côtes du Rhône (France $11-12): This côtes is 90% old vine syrah. That means it’s black and literally opaque. It's also quite dry with subdued fruit but a lot of richness. This one was a 91 in Wine Advocate, and is well worth seeking out if you like syrah. If you don’t, you probably won’t care much for it. It’s got the leather and tobacco thing going on with a hint of chalk. If those things don’t sound good to you, buyer beware.

Bodegas Breton Loriñon Crianza (Spain $13): Another Tempranillo (cut with a little grenache) from Rioja, this one is a personal favorite but it’s hard to find in Southern California. It’s rich and fruity, but still pretty dry and light in body. A great food wine and a bit more approachable to the American palate than the drier Montebuena. Can cost upwards of $17 at some retailers.

Addendum: Two more value wines I don't particularly care for, but others do

Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (U.S.--California $11): Avalon's Napa Valley cab, as opposed to their non-denominated version, has been quite popular over the last four years or so. It's often seen at restaurants, probably because it drinks enough like a $20 bottle to appease customers paying the retail markup, and many wine sites and publications perennially list it as a great value. I don't much care for it personally, but you should try it for yourself.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon (U.S.--Washington $13-$14): CSM's Indian Wells Cab has been scoring in the low 90s, on and off, with the Advocate and the Spectator for the past five or six years. This wine is more more reflective of vintage than most on this list, so it will vary a bit in quality. Again, I've not been that impressed with it. It's by no means bad, but I've found it unmemorable.

 

White Wines

Like most people, on the whole I find white wine less alluring than red. However, a good white can be a real pleasure and while none of these are fantastic, they’re pretty decent.

Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling (US—Washington $12): Not all Rieslings are sweet, and this one has only a hint of sweetness but plenty of crispness. Apple, apricot, citrus, a hint of floral and almost effervescent, this wine is simple but pairs very well with Asian food (as per the tacky name), spicy dishes, and seafood. It’s also not bad to just drink. Keep chilled.

Ferrari-Carano Sonoma County Fume Blanc (US—California $13): This wine is a real standby for us. Crisp, pleasantly acidic, and lemony with a hint of minerality. Very good with seafood and rich cheese like brie. This is widely available, including Trader Joe’s and Costco, and is a great bargain. Again, chill this wine.

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay (US—California $14): We really liked the 2007 & 2008 Grand Reserve, but have been less impressed with the 2009 vintage currently on the shelves. It’s also worth noting that this wine can get up to $17 or $18, at which point the value isn’t as good. At the right price point, though, this is a sophisticated and rich classic California chardonnay that plays with the oakiness and butteriness so often frowned upon these days without going overboard as so many do. Best chilled.

Addendum: Good but perhaps not the best value

King Estates Signature Collection Pinot Gris (U.S.--Oregon $15): To be frank, $15 is a little lower than you'll usually find this wine but it's currently listed at K&L at that price, and I've seen it for as low as $14 before. This is a nice wine, and it's organic if that matters to you, but I'm not sure I've ever had a Pinot Gris that's all that exciting. This is a good summer white, and with its light acidity it will cut rich seafood dishes well. I'd say it's worth just about $15-$16, so it's not a value wine. Worth trying, though.

Sparkling Wines

We love sparkling wines. But let's face it, there aren’t many deals out there on sparklers. Sometimes French cremants and Spanish cavas can be fine, but some are pretty lame. So why even mention sparkling wine here? First, I think there's at least one good deal out there. Second, there are two other wines I want to push that exceed the $15 price point, but which I think are tremendous values nonetheless. 

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs (U.S.—California $14): Skip the Mumm Napa, the Californian Chandon, and the Gruet. Pick up the Ferrer Blanc de Noirs instead. It’s made primarily of pinot noir grapes, and is crisp, dry, and slightly yeasty/bready, as sparkling wine should be. It’s only barely pink and despite a pronounced nose of berries, it’s actually less sweet than the Ferrer Brut (also good, but noticeably less so to my palate) which retails for the same price.

 

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut (U.S.—California $18): Ok, so we exceed the price limit here. It is possible to get this wine on sale at about $16-$17 though, and it is simply the best value in sparkling wine on the market. Deliciously dry and rich with the crisp yet welcoming yeast aroma that good sparkling wine needs. Seriously, if you need a sparkling wine and you have less than $35 to spend, get this one. 

  

Henroit Brut Souverain (France—$34): If, however, you do have $35, buy this. I haven’t tried them all, and taste is subjective, but I think this is simply the best value in French champagne, and sparkling wine in general, going. This is a structured wine, and in fact would be worth the $35 even if it were a still wine. It’s rich with those tiny bubbles Don Ho loved, but dry and with a lovely yeasty nose. I think it’s not only better than competitors at this price range like Moet Imperial, but better than the basic Dom Perignon, which costs three times as much. It’s not for every day, but it’s a great wine and a great value.