Cheap Wine

Although I'm known to like the finer things in life, I’m a graduate student in the humanities who’s engaged to a social worker. While we probably blow far too much of our meager income on quasi-fine things, we also must live on a budget. When it comes to wine, such a budget can be problematic. It is not difficult to drink on the cheap, particularly if you live anywhere near a Trader Joe’s, but it is difficult to drink decent wine on the cheap. Below I’ll list some of my favorites in the $15 and under category (and two above $15 that are tremendous values).

Before I begin, here are a few caveats: First, one’s palate is of course subjective, so you may disagree with any or all of my suggestions. But I’d wager that you’ll find something you like on this list.

·         Second, many of these wines may not be universally available. Most of them, perhaps all, are quite widely distributed on the West Coast at least. The costs I’ll give are what I consider good values. You may see some of these at a much higher price.

·         Third, there’s always the question of vintage and aging. These wines may be better or worse in any given year, and it does pay to note vintages. That said, most of these are mass produced (for lack of a better term) and as such strive for a certain level of consistency.

·         Finally, and this should be obvious, these are generally not sophisticated wines. To be very broad, I think you can judge a wine by three central categories (other than the obvious one of flavor): balance, depth, and structure. It’s a little hard to say what these rather abstract terms mean, but we can do a quick and dirty version. A wine’s balance is its harmoniousness. Do the flavors work together or does a certain overtone really stand out or conflict with the wine’s other flavors? Most of these wines will be balanced, then. Balance is much easier to get in an inexpensive bottle than is depth or structure. Depth is a wine’s layers of flavors. Truly great wines will have an almost, but never quite, overwhelming depth of flavors that somehow work together in a nearly magical way. Structure is perhaps the most difficult to define. A bit like what the Meese Commission said about pornography, you know structure when you taste it. There’s a certain kind of three-dimensionality on the palate that “supports” the wine’s flavors, a “body” on which the wine is built. Most of these wines will lack the structure and depth of a great wine, and none of them will give you a sense of terroir. Instead, these are pleasant every day drinkers.    

Red Wines

The standby purveyor of cheap wine is the California based specialty grocery chain Trader Joe’s. Most of their wine is made by the giant Gallo company and sold under a variety of ever changing names. I’ve found that these wines simply aren’t that good. I’m sure you can find decent ones, but I’ve largely given up on buying a random bottle at TJ’s. The bad ones are really fucking bad, and the decent ones are just ok. Most of the wines I’ll mention here are not available at my local TJ’s, although they could be at yours. The first wine I’ll mention, however, is.

Perrin & Fils Côtes du Rhône Reserve (France $8): As you’ll soon see, Côtes du Rhônes make a number of appearances on this list. They are often, if not always, a good value because they provide balance, pair well with food, and are just plain drinkable. This one is highly available and while nothing special, it’s drinkable enough. Good in a pinch or for bringing to a party.

The Magnificent Wine Company House Wine (U.S. –Washington $9): This wine is (or was) produced by Washington winemaker Charles Smith, who has a number of other labels including the high end K Vintners. This wine is a blend (as are most wines mentioned here) of Columbia Valley grapes, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon & merlot. It’s lush and fruity with a hint of berry jamminess. This one is a standby for us, and although it has virtually no structure and very little depth, it’s a great tasting red wine for a value price. The name says it all.

 

Rosenblum Vintner’s Cuvee Zinfandel (U.S. –California $10): Zins are often a bit looked down upon by the wine snob crowd, and perhaps for good reasons. They tend to be big, rustic and peppery, as well as highly fruity and boozy. This is Rosenblum’s entry level Zin and it gives you a bit of all of the above. This is not an austere wine at all. Nevertheless, it’s probably the best “big” wine you’ll find on this list, except maybe the Andezon, which is big in an entirely different way.

Montebuena Rioja (Spain $10): The 2009 vintage of this wine received a 90 point score from The Wine Advocate. It’s 100% Tempranillo (the “noble grape” of Spain), meaning it’s rich but light bodied with a little bit of the dusty (in a good way!) Rioja flavor, and that it pairs well with food, especially roasted meats and tomato sauces. Not all Spanish wines are good, and there are plenty of pricey ones, but younger Tempranillos like this one still often offer a lot of bang for the buck.

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône (France $12): All in all, this is probably my favorite red on this list. It’s an accessible yet deep blend: 50% syrah, 40% Grenache 10% Mourvedre. I’ll just quote The Wine Advocate on the 2009 vintage: “A deep ruby/purple wine with lots of cassis, kirsch, pepper, and even an intriguing floral note, the wine is medium to full-bodied , silky smooth, and a truly delicious, hedonistic and intellectually satisfying wine that is a remarkable bargain.” (NB: I’ve seen this as high as $17, although it should be $12-$13).

Andezon Côtes du Rhône (France $11-12): This côtes is 90% old vine syrah. That means it’s black and literally opaque. It's also quite dry with subdued fruit but a lot of richness. This one was a 91 in Wine Advocate, and is well worth seeking out if you like syrah. If you don’t, you probably won’t care much for it. It’s got the leather and tobacco thing going on with a hint of chalk. If those things don’t sound good to you, buyer beware.

Bodegas Breton Loriñon Crianza (Spain $13): Another Tempranillo (cut with a little grenache) from Rioja, this one is a personal favorite but it’s hard to find in Southern California. It’s rich and fruity, but still pretty dry and light in body. A great food wine and a bit more approachable to the American palate than the drier Montebuena. Can cost upwards of $17 at some retailers.

Addendum: Two more value wines I don't particularly care for, but others do

Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (U.S.--California $11): Avalon's Napa Valley cab, as opposed to their non-denominated version, has been quite popular over the last four years or so. It's often seen at restaurants, probably because it drinks enough like a $20 bottle to appease customers paying the retail markup, and many wine sites and publications perennially list it as a great value. I don't much care for it personally, but you should try it for yourself.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon (U.S.--Washington $13-$14): CSM's Indian Wells Cab has been scoring in the low 90s, on and off, with the Advocate and the Spectator for the past five or six years. This wine is more more reflective of vintage than most on this list, so it will vary a bit in quality. Again, I've not been that impressed with it. It's by no means bad, but I've found it unmemorable.

 

White Wines

Like most people, on the whole I find white wine less alluring than red. However, a good white can be a real pleasure and while none of these are fantastic, they’re pretty decent.

Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling (US—Washington $12): Not all Rieslings are sweet, and this one has only a hint of sweetness but plenty of crispness. Apple, apricot, citrus, a hint of floral and almost effervescent, this wine is simple but pairs very well with Asian food (as per the tacky name), spicy dishes, and seafood. It’s also not bad to just drink. Keep chilled.

Ferrari-Carano Sonoma County Fume Blanc (US—California $13): This wine is a real standby for us. Crisp, pleasantly acidic, and lemony with a hint of minerality. Very good with seafood and rich cheese like brie. This is widely available, including Trader Joe’s and Costco, and is a great bargain. Again, chill this wine.

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay (US—California $14): We really liked the 2007 & 2008 Grand Reserve, but have been less impressed with the 2009 vintage currently on the shelves. It’s also worth noting that this wine can get up to $17 or $18, at which point the value isn’t as good. At the right price point, though, this is a sophisticated and rich classic California chardonnay that plays with the oakiness and butteriness so often frowned upon these days without going overboard as so many do. Best chilled.

Addendum: Good but perhaps not the best value

King Estates Signature Collection Pinot Gris (U.S.--Oregon $15): To be frank, $15 is a little lower than you'll usually find this wine but it's currently listed at K&L at that price, and I've seen it for as low as $14 before. This is a nice wine, and it's organic if that matters to you, but I'm not sure I've ever had a Pinot Gris that's all that exciting. This is a good summer white, and with its light acidity it will cut rich seafood dishes well. I'd say it's worth just about $15-$16, so it's not a value wine. Worth trying, though.

Sparkling Wines

We love sparkling wines. But let's face it, there aren’t many deals out there on sparklers. Sometimes French cremants and Spanish cavas can be fine, but some are pretty lame. So why even mention sparkling wine here? First, I think there's at least one good deal out there. Second, there are two other wines I want to push that exceed the $15 price point, but which I think are tremendous values nonetheless. 

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs (U.S.—California $14): Skip the Mumm Napa, the Californian Chandon, and the Gruet. Pick up the Ferrer Blanc de Noirs instead. It’s made primarily of pinot noir grapes, and is crisp, dry, and slightly yeasty/bready, as sparkling wine should be. It’s only barely pink and despite a pronounced nose of berries, it’s actually less sweet than the Ferrer Brut (also good, but noticeably less so to my palate) which retails for the same price.

 

Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut (U.S.—California $18): Ok, so we exceed the price limit here. It is possible to get this wine on sale at about $16-$17 though, and it is simply the best value in sparkling wine on the market. Deliciously dry and rich with the crisp yet welcoming yeast aroma that good sparkling wine needs. Seriously, if you need a sparkling wine and you have less than $35 to spend, get this one. 

  

Henroit Brut Souverain (France—$34): If, however, you do have $35, buy this. I haven’t tried them all, and taste is subjective, but I think this is simply the best value in French champagne, and sparkling wine in general, going. This is a structured wine, and in fact would be worth the $35 even if it were a still wine. It’s rich with those tiny bubbles Don Ho loved, but dry and with a lovely yeasty nose. I think it’s not only better than competitors at this price range like Moet Imperial, but better than the basic Dom Perignon, which costs three times as much. It’s not for every day, but it’s a great wine and a great value.

My "Perfect" Margarita

A few people have asked me for for this recipe, so I'm putting it up here. Before I dole out the goods, though, allow me some prefatory comments. I should also say that I'm a bit a purist with margaritas. Rocks, no salt for me. And I consider a margarita made from sweet and sour mix, whether purchased or homemade, an atrocity.

This recipe is the result of a lot of trial and error. Good cocktails, as you may already know, are often hard to pull off despite their seeming simplicity. On my initial run through of margarita-ing, I had one seemingly insurmountable problem: overwhelming tartness (A quick note: I tend to like my margs tart rather than syrupy, but even I can handle only so much). I tried to balance the tartness by adding sugar, by adding more triple sec, by using limeades, and so on. The end result, unfortunately, was often a wretched combination of burningly acidic and treacly sweet.... Not exactly what what I was looking for. What a brighter person might have realized sooner did eventually dawn on me: cut down the lime juice. That really was the key discovery. In fact, as you'll soon see, I use only half of a typical grocery store Persian lime per marg.

As to sweetness, after trying many options I finally just admitted to myself that simple syrup is a necessity. This means, of course, that you can't make a proper margarita on the fly. Personally, I make up a small batch of syrup and keep in the fridge as long as my nerves can stand it (I'd say two to three weeks). You can fudge it with superfine sugar or a lot of triple sec, but I find that both options yield unpleasant results.

Now on to tequila. Look, there's only one real rule here: USE ONLY 100% AGAVE TEQUILA. I do recommend a mix of blanco (sometimes called "silver") and reposado but one or the other alone works fine. Don't bother using anejo; it's like using a single malt scotch in a 7 & 7.

Finally, there's the triple sec issue. Most bar margaritas use the cheapest available, so-called "cadillac" margaritas often use either Cointreau or Grand Marnier (Cointreau is a triple sec, the original I think, and Grand Marnier is an orange infused cognac with a strong brandy flavor missing in Cointreau), and Alton Brown eschews it altogether. I consider that hint of orange key to a good margarita, so let's skip the Brown method. Skip too the cheap stuff. It's fricking terrible. The easy answer here is that a little Cointreau is really the best option, flavorwise. Cointreau is not the best the option for your pocketbook, however. If you have a good liquor store, you can probably find some acceptable Cointreau knock-off from France for about 2/3 the price of the real stuff. Alternately, the stuff Patron sells ("Citronge") is an acceptable option as well. If you want to use Grand Marnier, I'd recommend going with will all reposado tequila as the aged tequila's more developed flavor will be able to stand up to the brandy a bit better.

The Recipe (makes 2 margaritas)
-juice from one medium Persian lime or two small limes (I use one of these for juicing)
-1 jigger (1.5 oz) of blanco 100% agave tequila
-1 jigger (1.5 oz) of reposado 100% agave tequila
-.5 oz (or 1/3 jigger) triple sec
-1 teaspoon simple syrup, lime-infused* if possible (more or less to taste)
-lime wedges or slices to garnish
-ice (I use an ice ball in the shaker and cubes in the drinks)

Assemble all your ingredients and equipment beforehand. You don't want your ice to melt while you dick around finding things. Put a generous amount of ice into a cocktail shaker. Add the lime juice (I just squeeze it right in), then the tequila, the triple sec, and the simple syrup. Shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds. Strain the drinks into two nice glasses (I like this style), and garnish with a lime wedge.

Cheers!

* To make simple syrup, combine one cup white sugar and one cup water in a medium saucepan and heat on medium until the sugar has dissolved. Let cool before using in cocktails. Should be ok in the fridge in a sealed container for two-three weeks. To infuse your syrup with lime, zest a lime into the sugar and water mixture before heating and strain out the zest before transferring to a sealed container.

Brie and champagne

Veggie Stroganoff Recipe

My lovely lady friend is a vegetarian, so when I cook for both of us I need to be able to move away from the meat. Here's the result of a recent experiment that turned out pretty well. This recipe is enough for 4-6 people.

6Tb unsalted butter
1/2 onion, diced
2-3 cloves garlic, diced
1/4ts cayenne pepper
1ts anchovy paste (optional)
1-1.5 lbs mushrooms, sliced. Try to use some good ones like oyster, chanterelles, morels, shiitakes to mix in with button or criminis.
1ts dried thyme leaves (you can use fresh)
1/3-3/4 lb soy-based beef substitute of your choice. I used Gimme Lean "ground beef" in the tube. You could also omit this.
3/4 cup veggie or mushroom broth
1Tb Worcestershire sauce
1Tb brandy or sherry
1Tb vermouth or non-oakey white wine
1ts soy sauce
1 cup sour cream
1ts dijon mustard
Fresh ground black pepper
salt (I used a mix of seasoning salt and kosher. The seasoning salt helps add a meatiness.)
Egg noodles

Saute onion and garlic in a large pan with about 2Tb unsalted butter on med to med-high until soft and transparent. Season with salt (I used seasoning salt here) and a pinch of cayenne. Add anchovy paste a few minutes before the onions are done so it can cook a little. I didn't taste the anchovy at all in the final dish (which is what I wanted), but feel free to omit.

Then, remove the garlic and onions, add 2Tb more butter (or oil -- you could probably cut that down to one) and mushrooms. (I used about 1lb of criminis and maybe a dozen shiitakes.)Season with salt and plenty of fresh cracked pepper. Add thyme. Saute, stirring pretty constantly, until they start to soften and give up fluid, which will help to deglaze the pan, about 7-10 minutes.

Remove mushrooms, add a little more butter or other fat. Add meat substitute and saute until brown. You could omit this, use more, or use another type of soy meat (such as seitan). I didn't want to put too much in since I only like soy meat in moderation.

Deglaze pan with veggie or mushroom stock mixed with Worcestershire sauce, brandy or sherry, white vermouth or non-oaky white wine, and soy sauce. Turn heat up to med-high and let reduce for just a couple of minutes. Reduce heat to med-low, add sour cream and mustard (I used light, but I think full fat would work a little better). Whisk or stir well to combine. Add the reserved onion, garlic, and mushrooms, stir to combine. Allow this to heat through and the sauce is done.

Cook egg noodles, toss them with 1Tb butter and season with a little seasoning salt. I think it's best to add the sauce on top of each serving of noodles rather than toss it all together. Garnish with some chopped Italian parsley, and if you're feeling decadent an additional small dollop of sour cream.

What? No finished Wagyu photos?

Yeah, unfortunately I overcooked the steak, something I often struggle with. It was too depressing to photograph. I will say that it still tasted great.

I may do some more notes on the dry-aging project later, but here are my basic impressions:

1) This is not "real" dry-aging. You don't get that ultra-rich flavor that long dry-aging produces because the enzymatic action doesn't have time to really take place. If I were to dry age again at home, I'd buy a sub-primal cut and age the whole thing for two weeks minimum.

2) What you are really doing is reducing the moisture content of the meat, which results in (I think) a faster cooking time. The steak seemed to go from 90F to 145F in about a minute.

3) I need to try the Wagyu as it comes someday. Sadly, I cannot afford to do so for some time!

UPDATE: I just realized that the big problem was that my oven thermostat wasn't working. We just got it replaced after realizing that it wasn't shutting the oven off. Since I finished in the oven, the steaks were probably exposed to drastically higher heat than what they were supposed to be cooked in. I'm (somewhat) off the hook!

The great Wagyu home dry-aging project - Day 4.

On "Good Eats," A.B. stopped the dry-aging process on the fourth day. As you'll see below, I'm following that model in a way.


The steak is now at 13.6oz which is a loss of .5oz from yesterday. From 15.3oz beginning weight to 13.7oz is a loss of roughly 11% in four days. Pretty impressive results, but I am worried about dryness (and ruining a great steak!).


Dark and dense. I hope this experiment doesn't result in a completely dry steak! Hopefully the fat content of the meat will rescue it from such a fate.


I've decided that 13.6oz of concentrated Wagyu beef is probably too much for one portion. Sigh.

I've cut the steak in half (Notice the interesting coloration and all that marbling.) and will wrap one portion in plastic wrap to stop the dry-aging process, but I'll continue the process with the second portion.


Beef two ways.


So this portion, at 6.7oz, will endure at least another day of aging.


The double wrapped portion that's done dry-aging. It's actually about 7oz, but I forgot to take a naked photo.

A note on cooking: You're probably thinking I want to grill this stuff, right? Well I do. But there are two problems with that: 1) Our grills here don't get hot, and 2) the amount of fat in this meat will create an inferno as it drips down on to the gas flames.

As a result of these issues, I'll use the cast iron sear + finish for doneness in the oven method. I'm thinking about 1.5 minutes per side on a hot, hot, hot cast iron for the sear and then into a 400 degree oven for 3-5 minutes. I'm shooting for 120-125 internal temp here, so I'll just keep checking until I get there. I think I'll actually use the perforated pie pan that I'm using for aging as the oven cooking method as well. The pan will catch the fat and suspend the meat on skewers so hot oven air can circulate around it.

A note on side dishes: Irvine Farmer's Market first thing tomorrow for sides! I'm thinking steamed fingerling potatoes and perhaps some kale sauteed with garlic and a little crema mexicana to finish. Since I'm cutting the steak in half, I can add some cream to the kale right?

A note on wine: Northstar Merlot Columbia Valley 2005

A note on a heavy metal icon: I'm dedicating this steak to Ronnie James Dio. Apparently RJD was a veggie avoiding carnivore, which no doubt contributed to his fatal stomach cancer. Let us remember his awesomeness and remind ourselves that red meat is only an occasional treat.

The great Wagyu home dry-aging project - Day 3.

Ok, we're down to 14.1oz from 14.7oz yesterday. That's another .6oz loss, exactly the same as the first day. So we're down almost 8% from our starting weight of 15.3oz.


Darkening in color.


Back in the fridge.

The great Wagyu home dry-aging project - Day 2.

Here we have the steak after roughly 24 hours of dry-aging in the fridge wrapped in a paper towel. It's gone from 15.3oz to 14.7oz, so we've lost .6oz of moisture. This loss equates to nearly four (3.921568) percent of the steak's original weight.

As you can see, some scraps of paper towel have stuck to the meat. If I were to do this again, I might try using tea towels to avoid the paper sticking to the meat.


Notice the deepening of color here. The steak has also become significantly firmer than it was previously, no doubt due in part to the loss of moisture.


Re-wrapped in a fresh paper towel and


ready for another 24 hours in the fridge.

The great Wagyu home dry-aging project - Day 1.

Ok school's almost out, so it's time to celebrate by clogging arteries. After seeing a recent episode of "Good Eats" in which A.B. dry-ages a porterhouse at home, and recently seeing Wagyu (American Kobe) strip steaks at Bristol Farms, I thought I'd give it a go.

I'm normally a ribeye advocate, but Wagyu rib steaks were not available so one does what one can (not that I'm complaining). In fact, this may be a better steak for my purposes as it is my experience that ribeyes need to be cooked at the higher end of medium rare in order to dissolve the fatty sections of the meat, while a strip will take rare very well indeed.

I'm going to give this sucker 4 days in the fridge using the "Good Eats" method, perhaps weighing it every day so we can see the results. I don't expect the deep dry-aged flavor caused by serious enzymatic work in four days, but I should be able to intensify the flavor quite well.


One (ridiculously expensive) Wagyu strip steak

Flash makes this hard to see, but it's just under 1.5 inches thick.

15.3 ounces

Alton Brown method


In the fridge.

Ok fine, it's "sparking wine."

So we just joined the Hi Time Wine Cellars champagne club through which we receive one bottle of French champagne (the only kind that can be called champagne, of course) a month. As a result, I thought I might document the wines here. But before we begin with the French stuff, we drank a bottle of Argyle Brut 2002 with some friends a few weeks back. I forgot to take notes, but if I recall, it was quite nice with a lot of balance, very smooth and fairly creamy although lacking a much minerality or bite. Argyle is reliably good stuff, if usually a tad overpriced.